Last year Gail and I went to the Czech Republic and Ireland for our big ole European vacation. Gail is Bohemian on her father’s side and Irish on her mother’s side which made the trip a great opportunity for her to explore certain aspects of her roots. People always ask me if I am interested in going to Armenia… visiting the homeland. I have to admit, at this point in my life, the answer is no.
It’s always a bit uncomfortable to admit this truth. As an immigrant’s granddaughter, shouldn’t I have that natural curiousity to walk in their footsteps and see the culture, people, land of my forefathers? Don’t I want to sample the cuisine of the region? Visit the ancient churches… ? Look for distant family ties? Relish the fact that my ancestors paved a pathway for me to now work in entertainment marketing in Southern California from a quaint village in the hills?!!! How can I possibly not want to fulfill these very poetic ideals??
As anything, the answer, “no” is filled with convoluted truths and poignant facts about my family, and their own brand of tradition.
An easy beginning, would be to start by telling you that I don’t speak Armenian. Neither does my mother. Her parents didn’t continue the tradition of the language to their children. When I lived in Los Feliz (aka Little Armenia), the fact that I was 1.) only half Armenian, and 2.) did not speak a word of the language (besides counting from 1-29) made the more conservative Armenian’s shudder with disdain. The sons and/or nephews they were selling to me earlier in the conversations evaporated as a topic and their atittudes became slightly chilly. But there is a logic to this seemingly heartless decision. That reason is that both of my grandparents had just survived a mass murder of their kind in the middle east. My grandmother’s family had been stripped of all belongings and forced to hide with gypsies. Grandfather and his brother worked as hometown spies – tunneling families out of the city when they could, fighting the tyranny and looking for ways to come to America. Once they arrived on these shore, in Boston, there was much that they wanted to forget, and much that they feared, even in a new country with promises of freedom and prosperity. Out of fear or out of determination, they chose to make sure that their children were dominantly American – with perfect English. They kept certain cultural aspects – like religion, community, food. Language was not a part of that.
The other factor in my nonchalance towards Armenia is that by the time my grandparents were born, their families had left Armenia for the middle east. This was in great part to avoid communism and to carve out a larger fortune for their families. My grandmother spent time in Lebanon and Iran, my grandfather was in Turkey. I don’t even know if their parents had been in Armenia or if it was the generation before them. So there were no stories about Armenia, and it was given little to no credit in terms of family history.
Finally, the history of the Armenians is somewhat grim. Armenia is characterized by many as beautiful, as being the mythological site of Noah’s Ark’s final plunge onto a mountaintop. It is known for its churches and hills and cities. But adjectives like joyful or warm or welcoming are never used. I find, even in Los Angeles, that the Armenian community (although far more of a soviet Armenian group) is very closed to outsiders. I have noticed that my relatives have never visited the homeland. My grandparents, though wealthy, never tried to go back. My uncles and aunt, the world travelers, will spend time with relatives in Argentina - but have never even hypothetically discussed the idea of seeing Armenia.
So I suppose I am left without a real Pilgrimage to my ancestors homeland. I suppose I am luck that my father is a European mutt… I can backpack Europe in search of tenuous roots.
One last reason I will probably never go to Armenia… I would be seen as a hell-bound sinner, and Gail and I would stand out like sore thumbs. It is a very religious culture. I fear that rejection would make me feel estranged in some way to being Armenian. I identify as Armenian in all things. My aesthetics, my cooking, my taste in colors even. But my definition of Armenian is narrow, and was built on impressions of my grandparents, extended family and the shopkeepers and restaurateurs of Little Armenia.
Now that I’ve written this, and processed the idea of pilgrimage, I can see how maybe I am wrong, after all. Maybe the contrast of what Armenia is, at the root, would be the ultimate lesson in the profound journey of my ancestors, what they left behind and what they built. Maybe it would give me a larger context in which to operate. Maybe my perspective would never be the same.
Maybe. But I still think the next trip is going to be Greece.